Research

Coastal geoscience and engineering research priorities for Australia

This project conducted a nationwide study to identify the most critical research priorities for coastal geoscience and engineering. The results will provide guidance for a more strategic approach to funding coastal geoscience and engineering and provide a clear evidence base for the most urgent research in this field. This work was completed in collaboration with Dr Andrew Pomeroy, Dr Mike Kinsela, and Dr Tom Murray.

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Read the policy brief based on this study here.

Swash zone hydrodynamics and wave runup

This project is investigating hydrodynamics of waves in the swash zone and working to improve models that predict wave runup. Some key results from the project include an assessment of the accuracy of existing wave runup models and an improved wave runup prediction model, characterisations of swash probability distributions, and identification of the processes that drive extreme wave runups.

Impacts of earthquake generated tsunami in estuaries

This project has investigated how earthquake-generated tsunami impact estuaries in Australia. This work investigated the tsunami risk to Sydney Harbour, has helped validate and refine tsunami evacuation zones for NSW, and has been used to evaluate tsunami warning thresholds used by the Joint Australian Tsunami Warning Centre. Read more about the earthquake-generated tsunami risk to Australia and Sydney in our articles in The Conversation.

Wave hazards on coastal rock platforms

This project investigated the wave hazards on the Figure 8 Pools rock platform in the Royal National Park south of Sydney. This project used a novel, low-cost camera system to identify the conditions that drive wave over.wash on the rock platform. These data were used to develop a live wave Risk Forecast tool to provide a four-day forecast of conditions on the platform to enable visitors to identify safe visiting times. This project was a collaboration with NSW Office of Environment and Heritage, NSW Parks and Wildlife Services, and Dr Mike Kinsela. 

The influence of climate drivers on coastal ocean water levels

This project is investigating how long-term climate modes, like El Niño/La Niña and the Southern Annular Mode influence coastal ocean water levels along the east coast of Australia. Results from this project will help coastal managers identify climate conditions that may cause coastal water levels to be abnormally high and result in flooding of low-lying areas. This work is a collaboration with Dr Danielle Verdon-Kidd.

Surf zone hydrodynamics

This project is investigating the hydrodynamics of surf zones on natural sandy beaches including processes such as how waves change after they break and how they interact. Some key results from this project include models to describe breaking wave height decay in the surf zone, characterising the distribution of waves in the surf zone, and quantifying what proportion of waves in the surf zone are broken.

Evolution of the Lower Murray River

This project is investigating the evolution of the Lower Murray River over the last 20,000 years using a combination of numerical modelling and sediment analysis. Some key results include demonstrating that the Lower Murray River was an estuarine central basin environment during the Holocene sea-level highstand and identification of estuarine central basin facies in the sediments collected from the Lower Murray River modern day flood plain. This work is a collaboration with A/Prof Tom Hubble. Read more in our article in The Conversation.

Submarine landslide generated tsunami

This project is investigating the submarine landslide tsunami hazard to Australia. This project has dated submarine landslides and conducted the first 3D modelling of submarine landslide generated tsunami for NSW, identifying likely affected coastal regions should a local tsunami be generated. The outcomes from this research have been communicated to stakeholders such as the Australian Tsunami Advisory Group and State Emergency Services through tailored workshops and presentations. Read more about submarine landslide generated tsunami in our article in The Conversation.

Tides in estuaries and the impacts of sea level rise

This project is investigating how sea level rise is impacting tides and water levels in estuaries. This project has examined how tides and water levels have changed over the past few decades in estuaries in NSW and assessed frequencies of tidal inundation.